The topic of GLOCK lubrication often comes up online. Here's the skinny on the proper way to lube a GLOCK.
I won't proclaim to be an expert but I'm a GLOCK Certified Armorer and this is what is taught in the course and what is shown in the armorer's manual. It has served me well.
I took some pics and used cleaning tips to point out lube points. Each lube point only gets a small drop of oil. I personally use wet oil applied with a needle tip bottle. The brand isn't overly important as any lube is better than no lube. Brand preference is a Ford vs Chevy debate I don't care to start here. Some prefer anti-seize or grease. That's another debate altogether. I still prefer wet oil applied sparingly to the points in the pic and nowhere else.
Note: this particular is a G34 I recently won and it has not seen many rounds thus far. I have detail stripped it but haven't really cleaned it yet. Note the copper anti-seize applied at the factory is still visible inside the slide. That's OK. It is NOT necessary to remove it when you purchase a new GLOCK. It's OK if you do, just re-apply oil afterward.
The most important point to get lubed is under the hook of the connector where it meets the crucifix. In one of the pics below you can see some white grease. I used the needle tip wet oil bottle to point out the exact spot.
First, field strip the pistol.
Here are the lube points.
Here's the sweet spot. Lubing this spot will give you a smoother trigger pull. It will feel better. Trust me on this.
Here's specifically where to put the lube. This is actually the only spot I use grease on a GLOCK. I feel the grease stays put longer.
Continued in next post …..
Last edited by VolGrad; 03-25-2011 at 10:33 AM.
…. continued from above.
Here are some close-ups with a more detailed description.
Place a drop of oil in the rail channel of each side of the slide.
Place a drop of oil on the top of the EDP channel cover. There is probably a more official name for this part but I don't know it.
Place a drop of oil inside the slide forward of the injection port.
Place a drop of oil on the top and inside of each part of the barrel lug.
Place a drop of oil on the barrel and rub it around a bit with your finger.
![]()
Last edited by VolGrad; 03-25-2011 at 10:34 AM.
Good posting. I clean (when I clean) with a CLP type product and don't lube any particular spots other than the sweet spot.
I don't use as much grease as you have picutured.
Lastly, I don't get too worked up over lubing GLOCKs since I clean my pistols fairly regularly. Sometimes I use too little lube, sometimes I use too much. Not a big deal with a GLOCK. With some pistols, especially a 1911, lube is MUCH more important.
A GLOCK will run with no lube for a long time. I don't recommend it but it will still run.
A GLOCK will get excessively gunked up with too much lube. The lube both attracts and holds grit and grime. This is actually more likely to cause a malfunction than no lube at all in a GLOCK. Don't get me wrong ... it will take thousands and thousands of rounds to cause a GLOCK to choke from being too dirty. Most of us won't ever reach that point.
Last edited by VolGrad; 10-01-2010 at 07:45 AM.
I went heavy for effect. I wanted it to be visible in the pics. I don't generally use that much either.
Also, I am an Eezox freak. As part of my cleaning routine I actually field strip the gun then place the barrel, recoil spring assembly, barrel, and slide in the bed of my truck. I hose it all down with the aerosol Eezox and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Once it has had time to do it's magic I wipe the parts down then do any detail cleaning I need, then lube, then re-assemble.
If you are not familiar with Eeozox ... it is a cleaner, anti-corrosive, and lube all in one. It is also one of the best smells known to man.
I want to know where you buy the pointed Qtips???
It's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it!
You don't shoot to kill; you shoot to stay alive.
They were either from Brownell's or Midway USA. I can't recall which. Regular Q-tips come unwound too easily and are too fat on the tip to do much good. These are awesome. The stick doesn't bend and break either. I had to use a razor knife and really bear down to cut them in half for the pics.
In picture, number 3, you show some "LUBE", not oil, WHY and what type?
Great write up Vol! Good work as always.