Advanced GLOCK Trigger Tuning - Page 2
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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Glock View Post
    I think it's a conspiracy!
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  2. #12
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    Thank you guys for the comments, its very much appreciated.

    I uploaded some pictures below showing the areas to tweak for those who requested.

    In these first two pictures, the green circle indicates the area of plastic on the Trigger Mechanism Housing that needs to be slightly rounded and smoothed. The plastic area outlined in blue around the Connector might sometimes bind with the Connector. If there is any binding of the Connector on the plastic, make sure to slightly sand of work the area with a file until there is no more binding.



    In these two pictures, the area encircled in red might sometimes have a burr and will need to be lightly filed or sanded to smooth out the edge. The area circled in orange, pushes up the Striker Pin Block. This area will need to be smoothed over with a honing stone or some 400 grit sand paper(if sand paper is used, it will need to be backed with something hard and flat, like a flat blade screwdriver) and the polished.

    "Get yourself a Glock and lose that nickel plated sissy pistol." U.S. Marshals (1998)
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  3. #13
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    Here's an updated link to the video.. now on gunvideos.org

    http://gunvideos.org/view/1141/advanced-trigger-tuning/

    Boomer.. greatvideo.. you want your own channel?

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    http://glock.pro/media.php?do=details&mid=37[/QUOTE]

    Just signed up but cant view this video... sounds cool but im no forums expert, why might i not be permitted to enjoy an instructional video???

  6. #15
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    Welcome to the forum Unsmooth. I actually just tried to view the video and was told I don't have permissions. Is this the same error you are receiving?
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  7. #16
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    I replaced the media section a couple weeks back with http://www.gunvideos.org

    This video is right on the main page..

  8. #17
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    Great video boomer! Just watched it again.

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    Thanks to the OP for putting this together.

    Was extremely helpful!

    I haven't done anything with my trigger and not sure if I will (need to break it in first before making a decision on changing things). But, was very informative. Good to know what all of the pieces are and how they interact!
    Last edited by Habious; 05-11-2011 at 03:49 PM.

  10. #19
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    If anyone still follows this thread I have a couple of updates to this info. All of the previous work I had done in what you read in the previous posts to this one gained me a consistent and smooth/clean breaking 4lb trigger pull. All of the work is done to a G21SF that I use strictly for target & competition shooting. There is too much in the way of legality issues to use this pistol for SD/HD unless I was to swap in factory parts in place of the modified parts.

    Side note: This pistol does have a Fulcrum aluminum trigger and Trigger bar, but I did not buy it. I came in another Glock I owned and I decided to swap it over to my G21SF. This trigger does have over-travel & pre-travel adjustment set screws, but the screws do not interfere with the weight and or feel of the trigger.

    Now for the update, I have done a little more fine tuning and gained a drop in trigger pull weight from 4lbs to 3.75-3.8lbs. (Every little bit counts!) Also, I have not changed any internal springs. I do plan on swapping in (All Glockworx parts) reduced power Firing Pin Block Plunger & Striker springs, and a plus power trigger spring. I'll report on the results when I get the parts in.

    The mods I preformed:

    1 - I slightly tweaked the bend angle on the Trigger Bar part that the Trigger Spring hooks onto. I bent it towards the Trigger just enough so that the hook on the Trigger Spring will not hit the Trigger Mechanism Housing.

    Caution: Over bending will effect trigger reset.

    2 - (Look back at post #12, on the Trigger Mechanism Housing the areas circled in green.) This sharp angle is what I was focusing on. I slightly re-profiled the angle so it is not as short and steep. Also, I have made sure the surfaces were smoothed and edges were radiused, because if not and there is contact with between the Trigger Bar & Trigger Mechanism Housing you could feel a combination of roughness & heavy spots in the trigger pull.

    3 - (Look back at post #12, on the Trigger Bar the area circled in red.) I took just a little more metal off this edge with a fine cut file and polished with a Dremel and Mothers Polish Compound.

    Note: 2 & 3 correspond to each other. If these parts touch during movement while the trigger is being cycled through its reward motion, you might feel roughness and or heavy spots. If you feel roughness and or heavy spots in your triggers rearward cycle movement, 33% of the time the problem causing the issue will be the areas indicated in 2 & 3. The other 66% of the time roughness and heavy spots are caused by either the Trigger Bar/Connector engagement surfaces or the Firing Pin Block Plunger/Trigger Bar engagement areas.

    4 - I use a 3.5# Scherer connector in the pistol and its nice, but I wanted to take a little tension weight out of it. I cut down the two sides along the main body length of the connector and re-polished.

    All of these little modifications have really made this pistol a shooter, I like to shoot quart sized oil bottle out at 50 yards with it!
    Last edited by Boomer; 10-11-2012 at 02:20 AM.
    "Get yourself a Glock and lose that nickel plated sissy pistol." U.S. Marshals (1998)
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  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boomer View Post
    .....Also, I have not changed any internal springs. I do plan on swapping in (All Glockworx parts) reduced power Firing Pin Block Plunger & Striker springs, and a plus power trigger spring. I'll report on the results when I get the parts in...
    Boomer;

    I watched your video some time ago, and just went back again to review it once more. This is fine work!

    What I really appreciate is that you took the time to study the whole mechanism and look for individual friction areas, where you applied just the right amount of correction.

    The fact that you are able to get a trigger pull below 4 pounds without changing springs is a testimony to your studied, methodical approach. Contrast that with the expensive but easy parts-swapping technique that many of us try, and then we get frustrated when $200 worth of trigger parts won't magically transform a Glock trigger into a 1911 trigger.

    As for the firing pin safety spring and the striker spring, you will indeed get even more improvement. I found that a lighter firing pin safety spring can make the initial hesitation in the trigger pull vanish, it surprised me. And then of course the striker spring will make a difference you can feel immediately. I'm less convinced about the trigger spring, but I'll be interested to see what you find.

    Now, I've got to get out to the shop with your latest post printed, so that I can apply your changes to my G21SF. It still has stock springs, the only thing I've done is put in a Glock "-" connector and polish things up a bit.

    Again, great work, please keep it coming.

    Chris
    "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."

    Abraham Lincoln



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