Cause of firing pin/FP safety wear - Page 2
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  1. #11
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    I've never been to Smyrna Glock (but hope to fairly soon), but from what people here have said, it shouldn't bother them at all that you've polished parts, etc. In fact, they may replace those parts if they find them not up to standard. This is the impression that I've gotten from what people have posted here. I don't have first hand experience.

    People here report that they remove any non-glock parts (such as connectors, triggers from a 3rd party) and replaced them with Glock parts.

  2. #12
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    Spring Cups

    Quote Originally Posted by Purkeypilot View Post
    Cobalt, one other thing I see in your pictures that needs addressing in order to avoid part wear is your Spring Cup placement on your Firing Pin Spring.

    Notice how the "Split" between the two halves of the Spring Cups is resting right on the end of the spring coil? It is causing the Spring Cups to spread apart, as well as one sitting lower than the other, which will cause them to wear asymetrically as well as wear faster. It is important for the Firing Pin Spring Cups to wear together and be replaced together.

    I recommend rotating them so that the split between the halves does not sit right on top of the end of the spring coil.
    Perkypilot, thanks for pointing this out. I went to reposition the Spring Cups as you suggested and noticed the firing pin spring seems to have different ends (at least mine does). One end of the FP spring is made in such a way that the end lies flatter than on the other end. The spring end that isn't as flat also has several coils wound very close to each other (this is seen in photo #3 above), possibly so as to tell the ends apart. So, I believe that besides having the spring cup split right over the end of the spring, I also had the wrong end of the spring secured by the spring cups in the first place.

    The Glock uses a fairly uncomplicated system, but it sure isn't w/o its own learning curve!

  3. #13
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    OK, I'll give Glock a call to be sure of the hours, etc. and will be taking it to them if all goes as planned. I will be sure to post the results.

    Maybe they'll comp me a Glock factory magazine loader. The mag loader and the brush was missing from the factory box the gun came in (the rod is there). I don't need the cleaning rod/brush but having the reloader would be nice. I know the Uplula is the end-all do-all of mag loaders, but I can get by w/the factory loader considering I'm not an everyday shooter. Not yet, at least.

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  5. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
    ...I went to reposition the Spring Cups as you suggested and noticed the firing pin spring seems to have different ends (at least mine does). .The Glock uses a fairly uncomplicated system, but it sure isn't w/o its own learning curve!
    If you haven't seen these instructions before, take a look at the .pdf document at this link, page 11-16, for a handy way to position the striker assembly so that you can easily remove and install the spring cups:Trigger Installation - GlockTriggers.com You remove the striker assembly and use the slide as a holding tool.

    The referenced pages are attached.

    Chris

    Pages from GlockTriggers_Disassembly_Reassembly.pdf
    Last edited by cohland; 04-05-2013 at 10:07 AM.
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  6. #15
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    Thanks for that link. Oddly, I was researching this after posting about the different ends of the firing pin spring, and ran across this post (from near the end of the page, post by 'GLOCKREAPER' (bold mine):
    From Glocks Armorers Manual Addendum, "Firing Pin Spring...the end with the most coils goes toward the spring cups..."
    The spring cup's split alignment being 90 degrees from the end of the spring makes perfect sense, but not using the end that has less of a "bump" caused by the spring end doesn't really seem to make sense, so I must be missing the reason for the spring to be orientated the way Glock recommends.

    To further cloud things, in the link you provided, both ends are shown (depending on which photo you are looking at) as being the end that receives the spring cup. So my question is, is there a reasonable explanation why the end w/the most coils is the one to use?

    Also, I did not receive a manual of any kind w/my used G22C. Can you recommend a good manual to me- factory or aftermarket?

    Thanks, Mark

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    Quote Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
    Thanks for that link. Oddly, I was researching this after posting about the different ends of the firing pin spring, and ran across this post (from near the end of the page, post by 'GLOCKREAPER' (bold mine):

    The spring cup's split alignment being 90 degrees from the end of the spring makes perfect sense, but not using the end that has less of a "bump" caused by the spring end doesn't really seem to make sense, so I must be missing the reason for the spring to be orientated the way Glock recommends.

    To further cloud things, in the link you provided, both ends are shown (depending on which photo you are looking at) as being the end that receives the spring cup. So my question is, is there a reasonable explanation why the end w/the most coils is the one to use?

    Also, I did not receive a manual of any kind w/my used G22C. Can you recommend a good manual to me- factory or aftermarket?

    Thanks, Mark
    I do not know why there is a preference for orienting the spring one way or the other. I would position it to make the contact with the spring cups the most level, since they can be tricky to change and are a little more delicate than the spacer at the other end of the spring.

    As for the manual, there are a few hopeful links here (Downloadable Materials | GLOCK USA) but none of them point to the Instructions for Use booklet. I would call Glock (770-432-1202), ask for customer service, and see if they will send you one. Otherwise, I'm sure you can pick one up on your visit to Smyrna.

    Chris
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  8. #17
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    I will use the Glock-specified end of the spring. Just because I don't get it means very little at this point! lol

    Chris, you're a real asset to the forum. As are all the guys who lend a hand, thanks one and all!
    Last edited by cobalt327; 04-05-2013 at 11:18 AM.

  9. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
    ...Chris, you're a real asset to the forum. As are all the guys who lend a hand, thanks one and all!
    Well, thanks!

    We have a very good group of members on this forum, we seem to really like solving problems. Some of us are primarily technical, some of us are LEOs with real-world experience (not me), and there are a number of competition shooters in the crowd, too.

    Over a couple of years I have seen responses from chemists, doctors, electricians, EMTs, firemen, machinists, metallurgists, lawyers, opticians, police officers, and woodworkers when their expertise is needed to answer a question.

    One thing that ties us together on Glock.pro is politeness and respect, which seems to distinguish this forum from many others.

    I have to say that your post that began this thread stood out for its clarity, and demonstrated that you had done some thinking about the problem before you put up the post. That sort of effort really helps the problem-solving process, and the fact that you stayed closely engaged, responding fairly quickly to comments and other questions, was helpful too.

    You wil fit right in!

    Chris

    PS: We may, however, never understand why Glock wants that spring oriented one way or the other. I will just file that in the "mysteries of the universe" folder.

    CSO
    Last edited by cohland; 04-06-2013 at 09:46 AM.
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  10. #19
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    Minor update and a question

    Still haven't shot it at the range, but dry firing hasn't caused any more damage at all.

    One thing I'd like to mention is there is plating on the firing pin as well as the firing pin safety. The difference is, the striker has "triple" chrome plating, which means the steel is first plated w/copper, then nickle, followed by chrome. The plating is relatively thin, though. The work I did on the striker to remove the damaged areas has also removed the plating down to the steel.

    The firing pin in its natural state was not "shiny" chrome, more like a satin chrome, or "hard" chrome- but the thing is, its much thinner than hard chrome would be expected to be.

    As far as the FP safety goes, it has a layer of nickle (I presume) then chrome over steel. I'm going to see what the armor at Glock has to say about its condition first, then if I get the same one back I intend to buy one made of stainless steel. That way there's no plating, period.

    In searching for other cases of peeling plating, I ran across this: chrome peeling off firing pin safety plunger? - The FAL Files. In the photo, the peeling plating can be seen, and was bad enough to catch the paper towel he was using to wipe it with. One more thread (there are quite a few others- I used "glock firing pin chrome plating peeling" for the search): garbage chrome plating - WTF? - AR15.Com Archive

    So it seems I'm not alone! Thing is, without magnification you may never even know it.

  11. #20
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    I forgot to ask: Should the firing in assembly be a slight "press fit" when sliding it into the firing pin channel? In other words, mine does not drop in under its own weight, I have to (very lightly) push it into position. BTW, the firing pin channel liner is clean and smooth.

    Thanks, Mark

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