Striker Spring Weight - Page 3
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by redtornado23 View Post
    FortTom - Absolutely the question(s) and potential answers thread about spring weight that i've been looking for. Please keep us up to date on how you are progressing and how the gun is performing on the range. I am curious as to where you found the 5lb striker spring - as i would like to try that in my own 23 if you feel it's worth the effort. Thank you for all of the information so far and whatever you provide in the future.
    Redtornado,

    First, all of my testing has been suspended due to a complication that is causing a delay in surgery on a herniated disc in my neck. I'm also trying something different. In the 19 I'm using a Glockworx trigger bar that has adjustments for both take-up and over travel. Wolf sells the 5lb. spring, but for some reason it doesn't show up on their website unless you google/bing glock 5lb. striker spring, then it takes you to the right place on the site. Since it takes about 2 - 5 minutes to install, I'd say it's worth the time, but not in and of itself. On the 23 I did a complete polish job also, and installed a Wolf trigger stop and 3.5lb. connector. I've put 8 or 9 boxes of ammo through that gun without a glitch. I picked up a lot of brass around myself, and every primer was hit well, with no light primer strikes. It has a very smooth take up and a crisp light break with very little over travel. Trigger pull was measured at approx. 4.5 lbs (averaged on a Lyman scale).

    The 19 is a whole different beast and I don't want to reveal what I've done to it, until I get a chance to put at least a few hundred rounds through it. It's not part of a "proven" kit, but separate components I ordered from different vendors, therefore I don't want to take a chance on "advising" someone into doing something dangerous or stupid. It's pretty well thought out and shouldn't differ much from the 23, except to eliminate most take-up as well as over travel, as well as smooth things out even more. However, it looks like I'm not going to get surgery until mid October, and probably at least 3 or 4 weeks recovery after that, according to the Doc, so that project is on hold for now.

    FT
    Last edited by FortTom; 09-27-2013 at 07:34 PM.
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  2. #22
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    FortTom,

    I took to finding some parts myself. I ordered a reduced spring striker spring kit from wolf, along with some different connectors (zev, ghost, etc.) you're right in that swapping parts is fairly easy and quick - so testing different recipes is easy enough. I don't really have a problem with take-up and over travel, but for $20 it might well be worth it to get a adj. trigger bar and see how it is.

    Sorry to hear about the disc - those are no joke and if you need surgery it must really be severe. I hope all goes well and you can get back to tinkering asap.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by redtornado23 View Post
    FortTom,

    I took to finding some parts myself. I ordered a reduced spring striker spring kit from wolf, along with some different connectors (zev, ghost, etc.) you're right in that swapping parts is fairly easy and quick - so testing different recipes is easy enough. I don't really have a problem with take-up and over travel, but for $20 it might well be worth it to get a adj. trigger bar and see how it is.

    Sorry to hear about the disc - those are no joke and if you need surgery it must really be severe. I hope all goes well and you can get back to tinkering asap.
    RedTornado, First thanks for the good thoughts about my neck.
    Now the bad part. I hope your striker spring is no lighter than 5lbs. 5.5 is the stock weight, and anything lower than 5lb would be comp only. Besides with a good polishing job, you'd be surprised how much difference that 1/2 pound makes. Don't go lower unless it's a competition only gun. Remember too, that 3.5 lb. connectors won't make your trigger pull 3.5 lbs. They, by themselves might shave off approx. .5lbs, but only with a full competition kit are you going to get a 3.5lb pull. The trigger I'm using to eliminate pre-travel and over-travel is $150 from Glock Worx so $20 isn't going to get you there (where I'm trying to get). And the lowest I would go for the trigger spring is 5lbs. vs. 6lbs. for stock. That and a good polish job will really make a difference, it will ensure (but test and test somemore) you get a forcible enough striker hit so as to not get any light primer hits. If so, in about 500 rounds of testing, I'd say your safe for carry, if not, and you want more than a range fun gun or USPSA or some other class comp gun.
    Don't change any angles on anything, and be careful about aftermarket parts changing angles. I'm neither an armorer or a gunsmith, but I had 35 +years of tinkering with guns in the military (my personal weapons) and since then with tutelage from armorers and gunsmiths. I also have an engineering degree and just want to make things work the way I want them too.
    That's not a resume'. What I'm trying to say is the Glock engineers did things for a reason, and you need to be VERY cautious in changing them. You don't want your weapon to go full auto at the range, come unglued and hurt yourself and others.

    OklahomaSafeShooting, Cohland, and a great many others on this site are true Glock armorer's and know their stuff. Ask questions before you try something, to avoid possible disaster. Or just PM one of the armorer's and ask questions. Either way you'll get a non-judgmental answer. Me, well I'm kind of a "crash test dummy" and sometimes take a path that make some of the armorer's here cringe, but I do everything slowly and deliberately, put a lot of thought into what I'm doing, and my first priority is safety of others, then safety for myself. Even then I can make some of the armorers cringe. But, I digress. Please ask these guys, if you have a question. I've had lots of help from them in my adventures, and I still have 2 hands and 10 fingers....most of all have fun and good luck. I'm not preaching to you, please don't think I am, but there are way too many people here willing to give you true Certifiable information to keep you from screwing up your gun and yourself. Again, have fun. Keep us posted. If I can help you with info on how I did mine, safely, just PM me here.

    FT
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  5. #24
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    FortTom - my bad, you did say glockworx, the $20 i was referring to was the lonewolf trigger stop.

    anyway, yes, i've read about the "real" effect connectors have on reducing pull and i'm not sure what lb pull i'm going to end up with, but it will definitely be lighter than stock. i planned on staying clear of the 4lb spring - so the spring weights in the kit i purchased are 4.5lb and 5lb. along with a lighter safety spring, heavier trigger spring, zev v4 connector, smooth face trigger/no bump trigger bar and a good 25 cent trigger job, i'm hoping to end up with a lighter and smoother pull that still has a decent wall, breaks clean and is 97.5374832% reliable as this will never be a carry or duty gun.

    i've received all of the necessary parts as of today, so i may change things out tonight and at least get to dry fire with a trip to the range planned for this weekend.

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    I am kinda new to this forum but I have shots glocks in uspsa competition for about 2 years. I have tried many of the possible combinations of springs and connectors and will tell you from experience what works. Your 5 lb striker spring should set off any primer, I am running a 4.5 right now and have had no trouble setting off cci, winchester and federal. I have tried the vanek set up and it is nice but you can get the same results polishing and changing springs. I also tried the glock triggers same thing nice but you can do your own. As far as connectors go I have tried ghost, lwd, taran butler, the stock glock is the best so far, I have a Zev 4 comming so the jury is still out on that one. Get the trigger assy with the overtravel adjustment screw. As far as the trigger spring it is hit and miss. You want a heavier spring to lighten pull, I beleive 6lb. However you must make sure your trigger will reset. When you start changing the recoil and firing pin springs they all work in conjunction with one another and sometimes the trigger will not move far enough forward the activate the trigger safety. Well hope this helps I'm at work and gotta go. Have fun.

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    I'm back. A couple of things worth mentioning. A lightened safety plunger spring goes a long way in making the pull smoother. My current set up on a competition g34 is a 13lb recoil spring, a 4.5 lb. striker spring, lightened plunger spring, a 6lb trigger spring. stock 3.5 connector. everything is polished and my pull is a pretty smooth 2 3/4 pull. If I change to a 5.5 connector it goes up 1 lb. and you really feel the "wall" If I go to the stock plunger spring it may add another lb. So basically if you polish everything and stick with the 5lb striker spring, the stock plunger, and trigger spring, you should average a 4 to 4.5 pull.

  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by redtornado23 View Post
    FortTom - my bad, you did say glockworx, the $20 i was referring to was the lonewolf trigger stop.

    anyway, yes, i've read about the "real" effect connectors have on reducing pull and i'm not sure what lb pull i'm going to end up with, but it will definitely be lighter than stock. i planned on staying clear of the 4lb spring - so the spring weights in the kit i purchased are 4.5lb and 5lb. along with a lighter safety spring, heavier trigger spring, zev v4 connector, smooth face trigger/no bump trigger bar and a good 25 cent trigger job, i'm hoping to end up with a lighter and smoother pull that still has a decent wall, breaks clean and is 97.5374832% reliable as this will never be a carry or duty gun.

    i've received all of the necessary parts as of today, so i may change things out tonight and at least get to dry fire with a trip to the range planned for this weekend.
    The trigger stop worked perfect for me in my 23, along with a 5lb. striker spring and a polish job. And 97.5374832% was exactly the same number I was going for....just kidding

    The biggest change that I'll be making this time is the Glock Worx trigger, that allows eliminating as much pre-travel as you want as well as over travel, and a couple of other things I just won't mention until I test them, which looks like it's going to be a couple of months, at least. The thread kind of changed, but what I'm going for is a 1911 "style" trigger. Of course I know I can't get there with a Glock, but I'm trying to get as close as possible. If I can do that and get, say a 4.5lb. trigger, I'll be as happy as a pig in poop. And if it sets off 500 primers of mixed 9mm ammo then it'll go into the holster and ride on my side. If not, then it's back to the drawing board.

    Have fun, but stay safe.

    FT
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  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by chodgdon View Post
    I'm back. A couple of things worth mentioning. A lightened safety plunger spring goes a long way in making the pull smoother. My current set up on a competition g34 is a 13lb recoil spring, a 4.5 lb. striker spring, lightened plunger spring, a 6lb trigger spring. stock 3.5 connector. everything is polished and my pull is a pretty smooth 2 3/4 pull. If I change to a 5.5 connector it goes up 1 lb. and you really feel the "wall" If I go to the stock plunger spring it may add another lb. So basically if you polish everything and stick with the 5lb striker spring, the stock plunger, and trigger spring, you should average a 4 to 4.5 pull.
    Actually chodgdon, I'm trying to stay well safe on the side of carry, and not a comp set-up. I'm kind of trying to push the limit and still be in the safe "zone" of a carry/SD pistol. I also (in the 19 that I'm working on now) using a lightened titanium safety plunger). We'll see what happens there.

    FT.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FortTom View Post
    Actually chodgdon, I'm trying to stay well safe on the side of carry, and not a comp set-up. I'm kind of trying to push the limit and still be in the safe "zone" of a carry/SD pistol. I also (in the 19 that I'm working on now) using a lightened titanium safety plunger). We'll see what happens there.

    FT.
    I would not put a titanium safety plunger in a carry pistol, I have personally seen a case where the plunger wore to the point that it caused failures to fire: https://glock.pro/glock-tech-warranty...problem-3.html

    Some manufacturers of these parts are careful to note that they are intended for use in competition pistols only.

    Chris
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    Quote Originally Posted by chodgdon View Post
    I am kinda new to this forum but I have shots glocks in uspsa competition for about 2 years. I have tried many of the possible combinations of springs and connectors and will tell you from experience what works. Your 5 lb striker spring should set off any primer, I am running a 4.5 right now and have had no trouble setting off cci, winchester and federal. I have tried the vanek set up and it is nice but you can get the same results polishing and changing springs. I also tried the glock triggers same thing nice but you can do your own. As far as connectors go I have tried ghost, lwd, taran butler, the stock glock is the best so far, I have a Zev 4 comming so the jury is still out on that one. Get the trigger assy with the overtravel adjustment screw. As far as the trigger spring it is hit and miss. You want a heavier spring to lighten pull, I beleive 6lb. However you must make sure your trigger will reset. When you start changing the recoil and firing pin springs they all work in conjunction with one another and sometimes the trigger will not move far enough forward the activate the trigger safety. Well hope this helps I'm at work and gotta go. Have fun.
    Quote Originally Posted by chodgdon View Post
    I'm back. A couple of things worth mentioning. A lightened safety plunger spring goes a long way in making the pull smoother. My current set up on a competition g34 is a 13lb recoil spring, a 4.5 lb. striker spring, lightened plunger spring, a 6lb trigger spring. stock 3.5 connector. everything is polished and my pull is a pretty smooth 2 3/4 pull. If I change to a 5.5 connector it goes up 1 lb. and you really feel the "wall" If I go to the stock plunger spring it may add another lb. So basically if you polish everything and stick with the 5lb striker spring, the stock plunger, and trigger spring, you should average a 4 to 4.5 pull.
    Hello, chodgdon... Very good advice... Thanks for sharing your knowledge... We don't have a lot of competition shooters on Glock.pro but we are always happy to have a talented shooter sign up...
    "While the anti-gunners seem very concerned about the "one life" that your firearm might take -- they are not very concerned about the lives it will save." Jon H. Gutmacher, Florida Firearms - Law, Use & Ownership

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