Striker Spring Weight - Page 4
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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by cohland View Post
    I would not put a titanium safety plunger in a carry pistol, I have personally seen a case where the plunger wore to the point that it caused failures to fire: https://glock.pro/glock-tech-warranty...problem-3.html

    Some manufacturers of these parts are careful to note that they are intended for use in competition pistols only.

    Chris
    Thanks for the link! That was posted before my time and I had not run across it. Very interesting read!
    I have a titanium plunger in my G22, now relegated to range work or HD in a pinch. I will keep an eye on that plunger.

    No aftermarket anything except sights for my carry gun.
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  2. #32
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    Thanks jb for the kind words. I have been shooting uspsa competition for about 20 years, just recently switched over to the glock platform. Started with the 1911, switced to glock for the simplicity and reliability. We push our guns to the extreme, and if they don't run you can't be competetive. A lot of our mods have carried over to the manufactures over the years. We all know that glock triggers suck from the factory and we are always looking for something better. There are tweeks that you can get away with and not compromise reliability, and would work for ccw.

  3. #33
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    You're certainly welcome, chodgdon...

    I'm afraid that I have the advantage here as I recognized your screen name... I shoot with you most Friday nights and several weekends a month... I'll send you a PM...
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  5. #34
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    I Bought a New Glock 30S several Months Back...after Shooting it I didn't like the Trigger pull so I ordered a Wolf Connector Spring Kit along with doing a 25 Cent Trigger Job. I reload my own ammo with everything going good until I bought some Winchester Primers which four or Five out a a 10 round Mag. wouldn't Fire. I checked the Primers & noticed light primer Strikes on the Misfire Ammo. I had some other 45 ammo that I loaded with Federal Primers with no problem with misfire. This Gun is my Carry gun so I have Installed the Factory Striker Spring back in the 30S which from what I've read should take Care of the problem. I was going to the Range to check out but Heavy Rain today so I will Have to wait. I hope this will take care of the Problem for I sure don't want to hear the CLICK of a misfire if I ever need the BANG. I dont know if anyone else has any other Ideas that will work for a Smooth trigger pull.

  6. #35
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    LBEE, I don'beleive you can get away with lighter striker springs in 45. The large primers need more oomph to set off. IIRC when I bought my kit fromm Vanek there was a disclammer that stated as such, he even said that you may have to up in weight to reliably set off those primers. So you can try the 4.5 connector, the extra power trigger spring, and the lightened plunger spring. You can also reshape the plunger to a more rounded profile, which will make a more smoother take up. There are vids on you tube showing this.

  7. #36
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    so i finally got around to installing all of my parts and adding another 5 cents to my previous 25 cent trigger job. i did not use the 4lb striker spring that came in the zev tech competition spring kit, i used their safety and trigger springs along with a wolff springs 4.5lb striker spring. also going in was a zev tech v4 race connector and a gen 3 trigger bar (no bump) with smooth faced trigger. dry firing the gun i was immediately happy with the reduction in pull, it was smooth, linear, still had a nice (but softer) wall and a clean break. tonight at the range i put 125 rounds (combined) of both 180gr federal and geco ammo through it and i did not have one FTF - the gun handled beautifully and the reduction in trigger pull made the gun feel...smooth? i'm not sure what word to use, but the feel was very much improved. groupings...i think things were tightened up - but i only have around 500 rounds through this gun and to be honest, i'm still "learning" the sights, which are stock.

    if anyone is looking to reduce and smooth out their trigger pull, for the few dollars in parts...i don't think you can go wrong.

  8. #37
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    Exclamation Glock specs and complex engineeing

    this thread is so old i can get my 6th post and hide my 2-cents worth here and most will never know. Specs, specs, specs. The aftermarket folks that sell springs (of all kinds) list this for that and that for this so Wolfe says the standard weight of a firing pin spring is 5.5; lone wolf states it is 5.0, (but they aren't real current with their news up there in Idaho). Glock doesn't say, it just shows you a picture of its FP spring with tight coils at one end only. Glock *does use a 5.5 lb connector on stock guns, why is that, so maybe Wolfe knows something that Lone Wolf does not. hot guns with light triggers do not make could carry guns for most people. if you have ever fired unwilling at the range, you or your gun is too hot as far as firearms are concerned and GSSF doesn't even allow all those mods and add-ons (with exceptions), with even no polishing allowed, so you get use to a stock glock rig and get good with it. There is more bs out there on the net about glock pistols than 'good' info; *much more; and answers to questions that are completely fabricated from somebody's imagination. - Danger - Use at Your Own Risk ...
    Last edited by user1; 02-14-2016 at 01:49 PM.

  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by __jb View Post
    Part of that line comes because of the difference between competition and carry ammo... Competition ammo is usually loaded lighter than self defense ammo... different springs are used for these light rounds... change to carry ammo (+p or whatever) and you'll need to use heavier recoil springs...

    Most Glock competition shooters use Federal primers so they can run light striker springs to get the trigger pull weight down... change to carry ammo with standard (CCI or whatever) primers and you'll probably get some light strikes... even if your lightened striker has an extended firing pin tip... It may be only once every 40 rounds or so, but you can't leave that to chance for a carry gun.

    So, my advise is... don't try to hot rod a carry gun... not even a little... not even up to the/a line...
    I've hot rodded carry guns before, but there's a give. With a lighter trigger and plunger spring there needs to be a heavier firing pin spring to make sure primer strikes are reliable. With a skeletonized firing pin, your channel liner needs to have dry lubrication like TiN. If you lighten the slide with custom cuts you need to have a heavier guide rod spring to compensate for the increased recoil. And on and on. Your Hot Rod needs to be balanced between performance and reliability.
    Get that b**ch a cannon. B**ches like cannons.

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by user1 View Post
    . . . Glock doesn’t say, it just shows you a picture of its FP spring with tight coils at one end only. Glock does use a 5.5 lb connector on stock guns, why is that: So maybe Wolfe (sic)(Wolff) knows something that Lone Wolf does not?

    Hot guns with light triggers do not make could (sic)(‘good’) carry guns for most people. If you have ever fired unwilling (sic)( . . . ly) at the range, you or your gun is too hot as far as firearms are concerned and GSSF doesn't even allow all those mods and add-ons (with exceptions), with even no polishing allowed.

    So you get use (sic)(used) to a stock Glock rig and get good with it. There is more BS out there on the net about Glock pistols than ‘good’ info—much more! As well as answers to questions that are completely fabricated from somebody’s imagination. Danger! Use at your own risk! . . . .
    In agreement with Wolff Gunsprings, and for as long as I can remember: Standard weight Glock STRIKER SPRINGS have been rated at 5.5 lb. Glock also measures their striker spring weights in NEWTONS—not in pounds.

    Glock offers two optional striker springs: a ‘red spring’, and a ‘blue spring’. Glock’s red striker spring is rated at 28 newtons, or 6.295 lb (nominally 6.0#). Glock’s blue striker spring is rated at 31 newtons, or 6.969 lb (nominally 7.0#). Glock’s standard striker spring is rated at 25 newtons, or 5.620 lb (nominally 5.5#).

    Now, after reading through this long, often ambiguous and much too antique post I am going to offer that EVERYONE who has responded so far has COMPLETELY MISSED a very important safety consideration (Ready?):

    There is a synergy (i.e., a ‘balancing act’) among all of Glock’s four principal operating springs. Anyone who screws around with one of these springs—beyond the safe operating levels set by both Glock GmbH/Inc., itself; or Wolff Gunsprings’ warning notices—is inviting a major Glock pistol screwup to occur!

    Here’s the caveat: Experimentally mixing and matching Glock’s four trigger mechanism springs can be tricky; (Read, ‘dangerous’) and, in order to avoid an entirely possible OBE (out-of-battery event), or an ND/NID/AD (negligent, non-intentional, or accidental discharge) you’ve got to (1) really know what you’re doing; and (2) carefully test the pistol, at least, several times over before you begin to trust and/or actively use it.

    Over the years I have learned to always obey the following precautions:

    (1) If a shooter is NOT using really hot (usually European) military ammunition, or frequently firing his Glock pistol very rapidly, and/or has not significantly reduced the weight of his Glock's slide then do not use a ‘blue striker spring’.

    (2) Anytime a Glock’s recoil spring is replaced then make sure to replace BOTH the striker and the trigger springs too. (Hint: The use of a heavier recoil spring almost always requires the use of a heavier 6 lb striker spring and trigger spring as well.)

    (3) The synergy which exists among Glock’s 3 (actually 4) trigger mechanism springs is such that: (A) A Glock’s recoil spring applies FORWARD PRESSURE TO THE SLIDE. (B) The striker spring applies REARWARD (RELEASE) PRESSURE to BOTH the striker, and the slide; and (C) the striker spring and the trigger spring WORK TOGETHER, and their overall effect is cumulative. (D) Within the usual operating norms, the striker safety spring should safeguard the striker by amply protecting it from any excessive shock, impact, or vibratory pressure.

    In other words the striker safety should stay down until it is deliberately lifted up by the cam on the trigger bar. (I never cease to be amazed that so many aftermarket Glock parts suppliers are asserting that reduced striker safety springs do not effect the overall safety of a Glock pistol, and are randomly offering these reduced power SS (striker safety) springs for sale.)

    It is NOT really safe to use these reduced power SS springs, and if it were then the factory would certainly use them; however, and (I think) with good reason, Glock, GmbH/Inc. does not. Consequently, I would suggest that neither should you!

    (4) NEVER attempt to reduce the front end trigger ‘take-up’ on any Glock pistol. Why? Because it’s there for a very good reason that (in my experience) almost nobody ever bothers to think about:

    This front end trigger take-up is, in reality, an undocumented additional Glock safety feature. It has to be there in order to prevent a Glock pistol from ‘spontaneously firing’—and this comment also applies to pistol shooters with even the most experienced and highly disciplined of hands!

    INEVITABLY, ANY REDUCED OR MINIMAL FRONT END TRIGGER TAKE-UP ON (ACTUALLY) ANY STRIKER-FIRED PISTOL CAN OFTEN EQUAL AN UNEXPECTED BANG! (Here, we are NOT talking about a Glock trigger’s secondary mechanical reset position, OK!)

    Finally, how do I set up my own EDC (competition) Glock pistols? Well I use all 3rd gen. (hardened steel) parts that have been meticulously polished to a high mirror shine. (Something that can no longer be done to any Glock pistol manufactured at, or after the end of Glock’s outstanding, Tenifer-treated, third generation pistols.)

    The ONLY PHYSICAL EDGE I have ever smoothed out during a Glock trigger job is the lower edge of the striker’s safety button.

    However, on the opposite side of a Glock’s trigger bar cruciform I use a SETSCREW overtravel trigger stop that has been precisely adjusted and then epoxied firmly in place. Then, on the connector side of the bar’s cruciform, I use a Ghost, Inc. ‘C.A.T.’ (Combative Application Trigger) connector with an adjustment tab that has been very carefully stoned to fit. (This helps to prevent a Glock’s trigger bar from torquing during either recoil, or at the end of its stroke.)

    From the center of the trigger face on all of my Glock pistols, the trigger will break at between 4.9 to 5.2 lb, and the break is ‘as clean as glass’—Which is, in my own personal opinion, a much better accuracy advantage than the simple use of a lightweight trigger pull might ever be!

    On a rifle? Yes! A lightweight trigger pull can be useful. But on a striker fired pistol? No! Mastering a CQB pistol is more about learning how to manipulate and control repeated recoil than it is about touching off an especially lightweight trigger. For the record: I can rapid-fire (i.e.: just as fast as the slide will cycle) all of my shot groups into a 9 inch circle at a distance of 15 to 18 yards, and I am able to do this all day long with almost boring regularity. However, to be fair, this is what firing 1,000 to 1,500 pistol rounds each month will do for ya, OK!

    Last edited by Pistolero; 11-17-2020 at 05:41 PM.

  11. #40
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    G17 gen 3 LE trade in/updated parts and surface polishing by myself/OEM trigger ~ Ghost connector


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