You're certainly welcome, chodgdon...

I'm afraid that I have the advantage here as I recognized your screen name... I shoot with you most Friday nights and several weekends a month... I'll send you a PM...

this thread is so old i can get my 6th post and hide my 2-cents worth here and most will never know. Specs, specs, specs. The aftermarket folks that sell springs (of all kinds) list this for that and that for this so Wolfe says the standard weight of a firing pin spring is 5.5; lone wolf states it is 5.0, (but they aren't real current with their news up there in Idaho). Glock doesn't say, it just shows you a picture of its FP spring with tight coils at one end only. Glock *does use a 5.5 lb connector on stock guns, why is that, so maybe Wolfe knows something that Lone Wolf does not. hot guns with light triggers do not make could carry guns for most people. if you have ever fired unwilling at the range, you or your gun is too hot as far as firearms are concerned and GSSF doesn't even allow all those mods and add-ons (with exceptions), with even no polishing allowed, so you get use to a stock glock rig and get good with it. There is more bs out there on the net about glock pistols than 'good' info; *much more; and answers to questions that are completely fabricated from somebody's imagination. - Danger - Use at Your Own Risk ...

Originally Posted by __jb

Part of that line comes because of the difference between competition and carry ammo... Competition ammo is usually loaded lighter than self defense ammo... different springs are used for these light rounds... change to carry ammo (+p or whatever) and you'll need to use heavier recoil springs...

Most Glock competition shooters use Federal primers so they can run light striker springs to get the trigger pull weight down... change to carry ammo with standard (CCI or whatever) primers and you'll probably get some light strikes... even if your lightened striker has an extended firing pin tip... It may be only once every 40 rounds or so, but you can't leave that to chance for a carry gun.

So, my advise is... don't try to hot rod a carry gun... not even a little... not even up to the/a line...

I've hot rodded carry guns before, but there's a give. With a lighter trigger and plunger spring there needs to be a heavier firing pin spring to make sure primer strikes are reliable. With a skeletonized firing pin, your channel liner needs to have dry lubrication like TiN. If you lighten the slide with custom cuts you need to have a heavier guide rod spring to compensate for the increased recoil. And on and on. Your Hot Rod needs to be balanced between performance and reliability.

Originally Posted by user1

. . . Glock doesn’t say, it just shows you a picture of its FP spring with tight coils at one end only. Glock does use a 5.5 lb connector on stock guns, why is that: So maybe Wolfe (sic)(Wolff) knows something that Lone Wolf does not?

Hot guns with light triggers do not make could (sic)(‘good’) carry guns for most people. If you have ever fired unwilling (sic)( . . . ly) at the range, you or your gun is too hot as far as firearms are concerned and GSSF doesn't even allow all those mods and add-ons (with exceptions), with even no polishing allowed.

So you get use (sic)(used) to a stock Glock rig and get good with it. There is more BS out there on the net about Glock pistols than ‘good’ info—much more! As well as answers to questions that are completely fabricated from somebody’s imagination. Danger! Use at your own risk! . . . .

In agreement with Wolff Gunsprings, and for as long as I can remember: Standard weight Glock STRIKER SPRINGS have been rated at 5.5 lb. Glock also measures their striker spring weights in NEWTONS—not in pounds.

Glock offers two optional striker springs: a ‘red spring’, and a ‘blue spring’. Glock’s red striker spring is rated at 28 newtons, or 6.295 lb (nominally 6.0#). Glock’s blue striker spring is rated at 31 newtons, or 6.969 lb (nominally 7.0#). Glock’s standard striker spring is rated at 25 newtons, or 5.620 lb (nominally 5.5#).

Now, after reading through this long, often ambiguous and much too antique post I am going to offer that EVERYONE who has responded so far has COMPLETELY MISSED a very important safety consideration (Ready?):

There is a synergy (i.e., a ‘balancing act’) among all of Glock’s four principal operating springs. Anyone who screws around with one of these springs—beyond the safe operating levels set by both Glock GmbH/Inc., itself; or Wolff Gunsprings’ warning notices—is inviting a major Glock pistol screwup to occur!

Here’s the caveat: Experimentally mixing and matching Glock’s four trigger mechanism springs can be tricky; (Read, ‘dangerous’) and, in order to avoid an entirely possible OBE (out-of-battery event), or an ND/NID/AD (negligent, non-intentional, or accidental discharge) you’ve got to (1) really know what you’re doing; and (2) carefully test the pistol, at least, several times over before you begin to trust and/or actively use it.

Over the years I have learned to always obey the following precautions:

(1) If a shooter is NOT using really hot (usually European) military ammunition, or frequently firing his Glock pistol very rapidly, and/or has not significantly reduced the weight of his Glock's slide then do not use a ‘blue striker spring’.

(2) Anytime a Glock’s recoil spring is replaced then make sure to replace BOTH the striker and the trigger springs too. (Hint: The use of a heavier recoil spring almost always requires the use of a heavier 6 lb striker spring and trigger spring as well.)

(3) The synergy which exists among Glock’s 3 (actually 4) trigger mechanism springs is such that: (A) A Glock’s recoil spring applies FORWARD PRESSURE TO THE SLIDE. (B) The striker spring applies REARWARD (RELEASE) PRESSURE to BOTH the striker, and the slide; and (C) the striker spring and the trigger spring WORK TOGETHER, and their overall effect is cumulative. (D) Within the usual operating norms, the striker safety spring should safeguard the striker by amply protecting it from any excessive shock, impact, or vibratory pressure.

In other words the striker safety should stay down until it is deliberately lifted up by the cam on the trigger bar. (I never cease to be amazed that so many aftermarket Glock parts suppliers are asserting that reduced striker safety springs do not effect the overall safety of a Glock pistol, and are randomly offering these reduced power SS (striker safety) springs for sale.)

It is NOT really safe to use these reduced power SS springs, and if it were then the factory would certainly use them; however, and (I think) with good reason, Glock, GmbH/Inc. does not. Consequently, I would suggest that neither should you!

(4) NEVER attempt to reduce the front end trigger ‘take-up’ on any Glock pistol. Why? Because it’s there for a very good reason that (in my experience) almost nobody ever bothers to think about:

This front end trigger take-up is, in reality, an undocumented additional Glock safety feature. It has to be there in order to prevent a Glock pistol from ‘spontaneously firing’—and this comment also applies to pistol shooters with even the most experienced and highly disciplined of hands!

INEVITABLY, ANY REDUCED OR MINIMAL FRONT END TRIGGER TAKE-UP ON (ACTUALLY) ANY STRIKER-FIRED PISTOL CAN OFTEN EQUAL AN UNEXPECTED BANG! (Here, we are NOT talking about a Glock trigger’s secondary mechanical reset position, OK!)

Finally, how do I set up my own EDC (competition) Glock pistols? Well I use all 3rd gen. (hardened steel) parts that have been meticulously polished to a high mirror shine. (Something that can no longer be done to any Glock pistol manufactured at, or after the end of Glock’s outstanding, Tenifer-treated, third generation pistols.)

The ONLY PHYSICAL EDGE I have ever smoothed out during a Glock trigger job is the lower edge of the striker’s safety button.

However, on the opposite side of a Glock’s trigger bar cruciform I use a SETSCREW overtravel trigger stop that has been precisely adjusted and then epoxied firmly in place. Then, on the connector side of the bar’s cruciform, I use a Ghost, Inc. ‘C.A.T.’ (Combative Application Trigger) connector with an adjustment tab that has been very carefully stoned to fit. (This helps to prevent a Glock’s trigger bar from torquing during either recoil, or at the end of its stroke.)

From the center of the trigger face on all of my Glock pistols, the trigger will break at between 4.9 to 5.2 lb, and the break is ‘as clean as glass’—Which is, in my own personal opinion, a much better accuracy advantage than the simple use of a lightweight trigger pull might ever be!

On a rifle? Yes! A lightweight trigger pull can be useful. But on a striker fired pistol? No! Mastering a CQB pistol is more about learning how to manipulate and control repeated recoil than it is about touching off an especially lightweight trigger. For the record: I can rapid-fire (i.e.: just as fast as the slide will cycle) all of my shot groups into a 9 inch circle at a distance of 15 to 18 yards, and I am able to do this all day long with almost boring regularity. However, to be fair, this is what firing 1,000 to 1,500 pistol rounds each month will do for ya, OK!

G17 gen 3 LE trade in/updated parts and surface polishing by myself/OEM trigger ~ Ghost connector


Always a flyer towards the end when the "happy" emotion takes over ... lol