Custom Gen3 G23 Frame/G19 Slide Issues
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  1. #1
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    Custom Gen3 G23 Frame/G19 Slide Issues

    I’ve had a Glock 23 gen3 for the last few years. I just bought a custom Glock 19 Gen3 slide. From everything I read, they are suppose to be close enough to work. I’ve having a lot of issues. The set contains:

    Glock 23 Gen3 frame custom stippled
    Killer innovations trigger assembly
    Stock trigger bar and all other intervals
    killer innovation G19 slide
    Killer innovation G19 barrel
    Zev slide parts kit
    Trijicon rmr
    Trijicon suppressor height night iron sites
    Zev SS guide rod with 17lbs & 13lbs spring

    Problem 1: when I fire, the slide cycles back and gets jammed in the open position without the slide lock engaging. Oddly I have to pull the trigger forward into the reset position and hit the back of the slide a couple to get it to close. I don’t see any odd wear on the frame at all. There are are couple odd nicks on the channel on the slide where it rides the frame.

    Problem 2: shells are ejecting all over the place. First I tried shorting the ejector side screw on the since the mounting hole does go down to the ejector rod. I shortened the screw and took it completely out and still have the same issues. The shells shoot straight up, the shoot forward, they go all over. I would imagine it because the ejector is meant for a .40 cal vs 9mm

    Issue 3. Dropping mags. I’m using stock gen 5 17 mags and 19 pmag. The p mags are oddly working better but I’d there a side difference in the 40 and 9 mags that are making them drop.

    Issue 4. Light strikes. I get 2-5 light strikes for nearly ever 50 rounds. I am using remmington pcm and Winchester steel case. I’m only picturing the Winchester doing this so may just be the ammo.

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    Here are a few pics
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    And another
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    You're building a custom gun... Sometimes there are pains along the way...

    Since you have so many problems, I'd start with two things... Your major components seem to be 'Killer Innovations' so I'd give them a call and ask them if they see any problems with your specific configuration.

    You basically have a Glock 19 with a Glock 23 frame... It might help sort out things quicker if you purchase a Glock 19 frame and try that with your setup... Swap some genuine Glock parts for some of the custom parts to see what is causing the problem.
    "While the anti-gunners seem very concerned about the "one life" that your firearm might take -- they are not very concerned about the lives it will save." Jon H. Gutmacher, Florida Firearms - Law, Use & Ownership

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    The G19 and 23 use the exact same frame, the only difference is the trigger housing mechanism, which given the ejection problems you're having, I would switch out for a 9mm. NOTE I am only referring to the frame, the slide and parts are different.

    However, I think your problem is going to be related to the slide. They've taken a ton of material off the slide which is going to result in it speeding up, potentially significantly. The solid recoil spring rod will also stiffen the frame a bit (not much) but this can also contribute to speeding up the slide. Are you having problems with both the 17lb spring as well as the 13lb? I would first try the stock Glock recoil spring. If that doesn't help try going up in weight to 19lb or more to see if slowing the slide down will help.

    It's also possible the slide is just out of speck, so you do need to contact the mfg and describe to them what is going on.

    Issue #2 - I can't say for certain why the slide mfg needs to screw their backplate on but I suspect it's because the slide is not as stable due to all the material removal. I don't see any indication, nor can I figure out how that the screws would influence the ejector. The ejector isn't a movable part.

    Issue #3 - this is a long shot but I really do suspect the slide is moving so fast that it's beating the h## out of the gun. Check the spring and fit of the mag catch - I don't know if stippling a frame would influence this or not.

    Issue #4 - check the misfire bullets to see if the strikes are centered or off-centered. If centered then it's likely ammo unless you're also using a light firing pin spring. If off-centered then the gun didn't return to full battery.

    Recap:
    1. use a stock G19 trigger housing mechanism (includes ejector)
    2. contact the slide mfg
    3. try a Glock RSA if that doesn't help try heavier springs (i.e. 19lb and go up from there)
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    The pistol was perfected by Gen 3 and somebody had to go and "fix" it.

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    The screw I was referring to was the rmr mounting screws. The right side screw hole is cut all the way down to the ejector spring rod. If the screw isn’t cut down, it will drag on the rod causing ejector issues.

    I thought the same thing with the slide weight and spring pressure. That why I went with the high 17lbs spring but the manufacture says to use a stock spring. Still ejects all over with the 13lbs and stock spring.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickndfl View Post
    The pistol was perfected by Gen 3 and somebody had to go and "fix" it.
    The slide was never a Glock. But thanks for your help. And believe me, I have a few stock Glocks, and despite the issues I'm having with this, it shoots better then any other Glock I’ve every owned.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twilsond7 View Post
    The screw I was referring to was the rmr mounting screws. The right side screw hole is cut all the way down to the ejector spring rod. If the screw isn’t cut down, it will drag on the rod causing ejector issues.

    I thought the same thing with the slide weight and spring pressure. That why I went with the high 17lbs spring but the manufacture says to use a stock spring. Still ejects all over with the 13lbs and stock spring.
    Ah! I see. What you're referring to is not the ejector, it's technical name is "extractor" as it clasps the rim of the casing and extracts it from the chamber as the slide moves rearward. The rod is the "extractor depressor plunger"

    The Ejector is the metal part that protrudes from the Trigger Mechanism Housing. As the extractor pulls the empty case to the rear, it strikes against the ejector - the result is the casing flips out of the gun. Speed/force of the slide, angle of the ejector and grip of the extractor on the rim have to work together to properly eject the round - the shooter's grip on the gun also influences the ejection as it effects the efficiency (energy) of the slide's cycle. If the recoil spring is too light, it will throw brass across the room, too heavy and the gun will stove pipe. Ejector/Extractor issues can cause a variety of ejection problems including brass to the face. It looks like you currently have the .40 S&W ejector/trigger mechanism housing in your gun, I would swap it out with a factory G19 housing (Glock part #322).

    Also be sure you have the correct spring loaded bearing (Glock part# 2714). You need the LCI version, it's black but so is the non-LCI. The LCI version has a thinner head on it. I'm sorry I don't have a better way to describe it - if you haven't seen them both it's hard to understand.

    Springs - the factory Gen3 G19 is 18lbs, so at 17lbs you're slightly under sprung and at 13lbs with a slide that light I would say you're at risk of damaging the frame. That may explain the slide locking back. Did it also lock to the rear with the 17lbs spring and/or the factory RSA? With such a heavily modified slide and aftermarket parts we're kind of shooting in the dark. All I can suggest is to keep going up in spring weight to see if things stabilize. Swapping out the extractor, extractor depressor plunger, spring and bearing for factory Glock parts should be considered as well. These are inexpensive parts. Use G19 parts.

    Final note - I read the installation instructions for that slide. Their lubrication locations include the firing pin channel. Do NOT oil this area - it will only capture dirt and gum up the firing pin. The area they show is actually covered by the firing pin spacer - a plastic part, so their lubrication recommendation really makes no sense.
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  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtStream View Post
    Springs - the factory Gen3 G19 is 18lbs, so at 17lbs you're slightly under sprung and at 13lbs with a slide that light I would say you're at risk of damaging the frame. That may explain the slide locking back. Did it also lock to the rear with the 17lbs spring and/or the factory RSA? With such a heavily modified slide and aftermarket parts we're kind of shooting in the dark. All I can suggest is to keep going up in spring weight to see if things stabilize. Swapping out the extractor, extractor depressor plunger, spring and bearing for factory Glock parts should be considered as well. These are inexpensive parts. Use G19 parts.
    I've never modified a Glock in this manner... But when I was shooting a 34 in USPSA's Production division, I installed an un-captured SS guide rod and took a bunch of Wolfe recoil springs out to the range... Testing springs back-to-back helps determine which works best.

    PowerFactor of the ammunition and slide weight also affect the functioning of the gun and the best recoil spring weight... Decide on your ammunition before you test springs... Compensators also affect recoil and change the requirements for a recoil spring.

    Excellent help, as usual MtStream.
    "While the anti-gunners seem very concerned about the "one life" that your firearm might take -- they are not very concerned about the lives it will save." Jon H. Gutmacher, Florida Firearms - Law, Use & Ownership

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