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  1. #31
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    Uberti Cattleman 45 Colt

    Here's my daily training effort, a photo of a Uberti replica of an 1873 Colt Single-Action Army. This was shot on a piece of frosted glass, placed atop a white poster board.

    Aperture: F36
    Shutter Speed: 1.3 Seconds
    ASA Speed: 100
    Light Source: Daylight
    Software: Adobe Photoshop Elements

    Name:  DSC_2110.jpg
Views: 653
Size:  894.4 KB

    This was over 5MB, which triggered a barrier in the software, so I had to reduce the size a little. A lot, as it turns out.

    Chris
    Last edited by cohland; 01-25-2013 at 09:06 PM.
    "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."

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  2. #32
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    Some of my pics, the files are 15+MBs.... Yep, I reduce them...
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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by cohland View Post
    Nice Pistol, that is on my shopping list, along with an FAL and an M1 Carbine, and a Ruger No. 1.

    I have a suggestion: when we post photos in this forum, to help those of us who have a lot of learning to do, I would like to see the following information added to posted photos:

    aperture
    shutter speed
    ISO "film" speed
    Light source (daylight, tungsten, fluorescent, flash, mixed lighting, etc.)
    If shot in RAW, it would be nice to know what software was used to finish the photo. In my case, since I use a Mac, this would be iPhoto, Aperture, or Adobe Photoshop Elements.

    If I could see that information it would help me to learn more about the process. Just a thought.

    Chris
    Sorry.... Trade secrets....
    []]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]
    ------)_'_\ * (
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    gen3 G34, gen3 G19, gen4 G21, gen4 G19, gen3 G17L
    Ruger SR1911
    Browning Hi Power 9mm Belgium
    Ruger GP 100 3" .357 magnum
    Smith & Wesson Model 10-5 .38 spec (2)
    Smith & Wesson Model 17-4 .22 LR
    Smith & Wesson Model 29-2, 29-3
    Smith & Wesson Model 624, 25-8, 28-2, 19-4
    Sig P226 "KD", P220 ST, P220 9mm, "KA" nickel P228
    Beretta 92 Italian
    Husqavarna 30/06
    Winchester Super X model 1
    "indecision may, or may not, be my problem!"

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  5. #34
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    @ Chris:

    First, great wheel gun! If I'm not mistaken, isn't that an acid process finish or some such thing? (I saw them do it on American Guns) Anyway, it looks beautiful.

    Second, that's a great photo. I assume you were off a tripod with a 1.3s shutter speed? An exposure recipe like that is something that I typically use for waterfalls. I'm curious as to why you went with such a slow shutter. I think I may already know the answer, but I'd like to hear your thoughts.

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYY23 View Post
    @ Chris: First, great wheel gun! If I'm not mistaken, isn't that an acid process finish or some such thing? (I saw them do it on American Guns) Anyway, it looks beautiful.
    The appearance of the frame of that gun is a result of color case-hardening, a process that's too involved to explain here. As the name suggests, it's a hardening process that happens to produce an interesting look, the same that was seen on the Colt SAA photo that I posted earlier. I like the look.

    Quote Originally Posted by NYY23 View Post
    Second, that's a great photo. I assume you were off a tripod with a 1.3s shutter speed? An exposure recipe like that is something that I typically use for waterfalls. I'm curious as to why you went with such a slow shutter. I think I may already know the answer, but I'd like to hear your thoughts.
    Yes, I used a tripod and shot this in the daylight of the window in my home office ("Man Cave" to my family). The only reason for using such a slow shutter was my attempt to get maximum depth of field and detail, setting the camera up for maximum aperture number (minimum aperture). I may be going beyond any reasonable aperture here, especially since I've seen your photos look sharper at F9. I'm sure I'm wasting something here, but I do like shooting in natural light because it's simple, and if I get things set up correctly in relation to the light source (the window) it's pretty easy to finish with Photoshop Elements.

    If you (or others) have suggestions about how I might improve, I'm eager to hear your thoughts.

    This is kind of fun. I was thinking about taking the lock out of my 1864 Springfield Rifled Musket and photographing that, just to see what the detail would look like. It's kind of like looking back into time.

    Chris
    Last edited by cohland; 01-25-2013 at 10:40 PM.
    "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."

    Abraham Lincoln



  7. #36
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    Chris... I added the info you requested below the last pics (the Sig) I posted.
    []]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]
    ------)_'_\ * (
    "----------\ * \
    "-----------\_*_\
    gen3 G34, gen3 G19, gen4 G21, gen4 G19, gen3 G17L
    Ruger SR1911
    Browning Hi Power 9mm Belgium
    Ruger GP 100 3" .357 magnum
    Smith & Wesson Model 10-5 .38 spec (2)
    Smith & Wesson Model 17-4 .22 LR
    Smith & Wesson Model 29-2, 29-3
    Smith & Wesson Model 624, 25-8, 28-2, 19-4
    Sig P226 "KD", P220 ST, P220 9mm, "KA" nickel P228
    Beretta 92 Italian
    Husqavarna 30/06
    Winchester Super X model 1
    "indecision may, or may not, be my problem!"

  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdF702 View Post
    Chris... I added the info you requested below the last pics (the Sig) I posted.

    Ed,

    Thanks, that is helpful. I think that I'm going too far with the maximum aperture number (minimum aperture) approach. The RAW file I produced out of Elements was over 24MB, and it doesn't look all that sharp to me.

    The lens I used is a good one, a Nikon AFS DX Nikkor, ED 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6G. Focal length on this shot was 48. Maybe I should get in closer. The main reason I shoot from some distance is to avoid distortion and to try to get as close to a full side view of the gun with as much detail of the gun as possible. I've taken some pictures of handguns for friends who want to sell guns, and it's important to make the photo as clear as possible so that they can make a reasonable appraisal without handing the gun.

    By the way, I'm going to try to photograph the bore sometime soon. THAT ought to be fun.

    Chris
    "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."

    Abraham Lincoln



  9. #38
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    I'm using an 18-55mm Canon lens on a Canon EOS T3 body at @ 1ft with my light box. I have (3) 65w flood lights on the light box (top and both sides) and I usually bracket (shoot a stop or 2 up and down) most shots.

    I just ordered a 50mm macro lens (I'll have it on Monday) and I'll be able to do some close ups as well... None of my lenses will focus close enough to shoot the fine details... yet!
    []]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]
    ------)_'_\ * (
    "----------\ * \
    "-----------\_*_\
    gen3 G34, gen3 G19, gen4 G21, gen4 G19, gen3 G17L
    Ruger SR1911
    Browning Hi Power 9mm Belgium
    Ruger GP 100 3" .357 magnum
    Smith & Wesson Model 10-5 .38 spec (2)
    Smith & Wesson Model 17-4 .22 LR
    Smith & Wesson Model 29-2, 29-3
    Smith & Wesson Model 624, 25-8, 28-2, 19-4
    Sig P226 "KD", P220 ST, P220 9mm, "KA" nickel P228
    Beretta 92 Italian
    Husqavarna 30/06
    Winchester Super X model 1
    "indecision may, or may not, be my problem!"

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by cohland View Post
    The appearance of the frame of that gun is a result of color case-hardening, a process that's too involved to explain here. As the name suggests, it's a hardening process that happens to produce an interesting look, the same that was seen on the Colt SAA photo that I posted earlier. I like the look.



    Yes, I used a tripod and shot this in the daylight of the window in my home office ("Man Cave" to my family). The only reason for using such a slow shutter was my attempt to get maximum depth of field and detail, setting the camera up for maximum aperture number (minimum aperture). I may be going beyond any reasonable aperture here, especially since I've seen your photos look sharper at F9. I'm sure I'm wasting something here, but I do like shooting in natural light because it's simple, and if I get things set up correctly in relation to the light source (the window) it's pretty easy to finish with Photoshop Elements.

    If you (or others) have suggestions about how I might improve, I'm eager to hear your thoughts.

    This is kind of fun. I was thinking about taking the lock out of my 1864 Springfield Rifled Musket and photographing that, just to see what the detail would look like. It's kind of like looking back into time.

    Chris
    There are many ways to "skin a cat" I'd say you did well at accomplishing your goal with the depth of field using natural light. If you've got a good sturdy tripod, you can do some great things with a slow shutter. You mentioned you have a Nikkor lens, so I assume that your body is a Nikon as well. When you get into slow shutters, the incidence of noise goes up, even at low ISO settings. Nikons excel at noise reduction, as is evidenced in your photos.

    I like to do unique angles and perspectives, so I need to be handholding the camera. I get the sharpness from the shutter speed (1/160). Being that I have a studio strobe and use my shoe flash as fill, it gives me the option to choose whatever aperture, shutter speed, and ISO I want. I liked f9 for the distance I was from the subjects, 1/160 is fast enough to give me a good sharp picture, and I like to use the lowest possible ISO I can get away with. So I manually input the exposure settings and then adjust the levels on the flashes to meet them. I do feel compelled to mention that my "bread and butter" is landscapes, so most of the time I'm using natural light. The only reason I own a studio strobe (and a cheap one at that) is to take pictures of my kids. It beats the heck out of paying some studio hundreds of dollars for Christmas cards every year!

    You're also spot on with your setup. The more you do correctly when shooting, is the less time you'll spend processing.

  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdF702 View Post
    I'm using an 18-55mm Canon lens on a Canon EOS T3 body at @ 1ft with my light box. I have (3) 65w flood lights on the light box (top and both sides) and I usually bracket (shoot a stop or 2 up and down) most shots.

    I just ordered a 50mm macro lens (I'll have it on Monday) and I'll be able to do some close ups as well... None of my lenses will focus close enough to shoot the fine details... yet!
    Congrats on your purchase. You'll find you can do some really cool things with a macro lens. Buying a new lens is almost as exciting as buying a new gun as far as I'm concerned. Almost

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